Hi!

I have scorched my quite expensive regulator, and upon closer inspection i see that there is 4 FETs in the H bridge of only 1 phase that is toasted.
These are easily accessible without even disassembling the unit, and replacing them would be a piece of cake job.
But, i can't find the transistor anywhere.
It's marked 4410 BE5C13.
Can anyone look up that number in the Jaeger?
It would be of great help, as i don't have access to the catalogue myself.
In advance, thanks :)

Hello

I have been using my new Walkera 4#3B for about 5 days now ...


General impression ... I like it !!!

About me: I consider myself an advanced beginner (can handle a coax reasonably well now).

After unpacking I trimmed the flybar (was about 0.5mm off center), and after ~2days I improved the flybar paddles, when I learned how they are mounted.

Flight behaviour is still a challenge for me, but very stable if trimmed well, and I was excited that I was able to handle the heli with only my coax experience.

It took me only about 3x10min of flight time to hover more than just a view seconds and keep it in place within a range of <1x1m.

So here are my general remarks, and experiences ...

Pro:
- good manufacturing:ws:
- stable flight:ws:
- silent, but still a nice realistic rotor sound:ws::ws:
- quite crash resistant:ws::ws:
- 2.4G RC works very well without any disturbances:ws:
- flight time very well (9+min):ws::ws:


Not so nice:
- the fixing of the shaft, tends to come loose quite easily, which
then causes the gear to drop below engine and the swash plate
to loose control. (hard to fix the screw !!):sad::sad:
- tail rotor comes loose almost after every landing:sad:
- screw of 1 rotor blade fix lost hold after only 2 blade changes:mad:
--> used a screw of a 5#6 blade holder as replacement,
which is a bit bigger and longer
- manual has errors, wrong pictures, :confused: ...
- desription of necessary trimming too short :(
(check on the web for better How To)
e.g. how to align flybar paddles ?
- useless screwdriver in package :confused:


Wishlist for packaging:
- at least 2 sets of spare rotor blades
- screw driver which fits the screws used
- improved fixing of shaft


Tips and tricks:
- The tendency for left-shift at takeoff (caused by tail rotor) can easily be compansated by a little right tip on the cyclic control

- It is easier to hover if you move cyclic always a bit, kind of randomly, instead of waiting for the heli to move and react on that

- power down situations are less stable than power up situations. It does a good job for me to increase throttle (not too much) whenever I tend to loose control in a hover


Hardware situation after 5 days (~15 accu charges):

- ~20-30 crashes, out of which 5 quite hard
- 3 broken rotor blades, (fixed all with tape and super glue, works perfectly!!)
- 1 rotor blade holder screw replaced (lost grip in holder !!!) the worst problem !!!
- landing gear bent, and fixed
- canopy broken at front (fixed with tape)
- tip of carbon stick below tail rotor is soft now (much better than new)

So still flying almost without spare parts (blade mounting screw)

Michael

How important is it the way you route the antenna. The manual seamed to leave out some cool ideas the Transmitter manual had. For one using a little piece of conduit through the fusealage to run the antenna through for support.

Another tip the Trans manual stated was to stick a t-pin in the Vert. Stab to attache the antenna too with a rubber band. The Great Planes manual just wanted you too tape it to the side and let it hang.

Any help would be cool. Thanks.

Time To Launch a Cub on its Maiden: 34 Hours

I'm sure its a dumb question but can I charge directly from the charger to my pack? I have a 500mah 7.4v common sense RC pack jst and balance tap (don't know what type?). Or do I need one of those nodes? Also, where is a good place for 500mah-800mah 7.4 packs... hobbycity is completely out.

So, I've been doing a lot of reading and since deans connectors seem to be the way everyone suggests, I went for it.

I changed all my lipos, nimh, chargers, and planes to deans connectors...

It looks like they make a solid contact for the most part but they seem hard as hell to disconnect. Did I do something wrong, is there a trick, or is that how they are? I'm afraid that pulling on the cables will cause them to disconnect so I'm pulling on those small connectors.

My ESC (Electrifly C-20) is rated for brushed motors under 25A. Can, I use it with a lipo (2 Cell, 10C, 800Mah) on a pico stick???? I know the standard answer but Tower Hobbies website has me confused.... it says two things. 1."When using this speed control with Lithium Polymer (LiPo) packs, care must be taken not to over-Discharge the packs as the low voltage cut-off on this speed control is NOT calibrated for LiPo packs. If LiPo packs are over-Discharged long term loss of capacity may result. To prevent over-Discharging, land the plane as soon as there is a noticeable loss of power to the motor." 2. (Tech Sheet) "Low Voltage Cutoff: .80V per cell for NiCd/NiMH, 2.75V per cell for LiPo Does this second detail kinda contradict the first statement?

My ESC (Electrifly C-20) is rated for brushed motors under 25A. Can, I use it with a lipo (2 Cell, 10C, 800Mah) on a pico stick???? I know the standard answer but Tower Hobbies website has me confused.... it says two things. 1.&quot;When using this speed control with Lithium Polymer (LiPo) packs, care must be taken not to over-Discharge the packs as the low voltage cut-off on this speed control is NOT calibrated for LiPo packs. If LiPo packs are over-Discharged long term loss of capacity may result. To prevent over-Discharging, land the plane as soon as there is a noticeable loss of power to the motor.&quot; 2. (Tech Sheet) &quot;Low Voltage Cutoff: .80V per cell for NiCd/NiMH 2.75V per cell for LiPo IS this contradicting the first statement?

http://news.tigerdirect.com/2008/01/...ed-recharging/


Not sure how real this is or if it's even possible but it's nice to know someones even working on it.

Wondering which way to go - the EP version is only $10 more but the non-powered version may be more interesting/challenging, and its lighter wing loading (I assume) will make it thermal better (this is Phoenix area and thermaling, not slope soaring, will be the deal).

I already have a lot of hours with the EZ*, and a few flights with the recently built Graupner Elektro-UHU ( a smaller but better thermaling R/E EP sailplane). Also lot of hours with a brushless HZ SC, R/E only but will start flying it with ailerons tomorrow).

Now- the multiple questions -

1. The EP Easy Glider will enable better thermaling than the EZ* and UHU, but the non-powered Easy Glider should thermal even better. Would it make sense to get the EP since it is only $10 more, and remove the motor/ESC/large battery after mastering it? Or start with the non-EP version (see Question #2)

2. For the non-EP version (or converted EP version w/o motor), I would like to experiment with bungee launching since I have never done that, and then experiment with aerotow (find someone at the field to fly the tow plane). Make sense, or too much fuss for the dolllar?

3. Now if the aerotow is practical, would the HZ SC suffice (it has about as much thrust as it weighs, and can climb at about 60-70 degree up), OR would a bigger, more stable tow be needed?

4. In general, do towplanes need to be taildraggers, or is tricycle gear an option? Are ailerons on the tow mandatory, or R/E good enough?

I know this all is a bit involved, just wondering how to keep challenged without spending major bucks on 3D aero, EDF jets, etc.

If I go aerotow, Hobby-Lobby has some nifty servo-actuated towing releases for the towplane and sailplane, just like the real thing (I used to fly the Schweizer 2-33)

Hi

This my first post here on this forum, so a warm hello from me. I have a Multiplex Lucky slope soarer and i am looking to convert it to electric, so i need some advice from you pro's on recommended set up's. Looking for a fast glider within its structural limits.

The fuselage is quite narrow so i am not sure this is possible to convert. I believe the mini-kult comes in an electric version and it looks very similar to the lucky, so could be possible. Max width for batery approx 50mm and for the motor aprox 30-40mm depending on where i cut the nose off.

Here's the gliders specs.

Wingspan: 1980mm
Fuselage length: 1111mm
Weight: 1400g
Wing area: 40dm2
Wing loading25g/dm2

Thanks

Warlock

Check out the "Buy 1 Get 1" offer at www.montanamodelworks.com. It's on the "Order" page.

okay, im still looking into the e-flight texan. i think the one thing that really kills the price for me is the RX. is there any other cheaper ones that would work guys? if so, can someone please send me a link. i would like one that could be used 7+ channels.

NEW E-Flite F-15 for sale Link to buy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150258670264

Howdy all:

I would like to upgrade the motor on my HZ SC in order to provide a longer flight time. From my reading here it seems as though a brushless motor is more effecient and will therefore allow flight time to be longer.

I don't want to upgrade the electronics or to a LiPo battery, so the motor needs to be compatable with the stock RTF and ESC out of the box. I have tried the search feature and can't seem to find anything that would meet my requirements. (probably because I have no idea what numbers I should be looking for. ???? )

Anyone have an idea for me? Thanks ahead of time.

Respects,
Whipple

Well, as the title says, it has been about 2 weeks since I flew my T-rex 450SE V2. I flew it 2 days in a row with short bouts of being inverted (on purpose). Well, I completed my repairs right away but I've been busy doing other things. I finally decided to get Rex in the air and I can't believe how nervous I was. My hands were shaking. I didn't have any confidence. Truly unbelievable! Even flying figure 8s was nerve racking.

I don't think I was a great pilot but I was making progress. Now I feel like I'm back at step one. I think there is a lesson here; don't wait so long between flights.

Hi! I have a Multiplex Easy Star, (get one!) and I love it. I can now consistently land it:tc:. I'm not too good with wind, so I'd love a slow indoor flier. Currently, I've been looking at these:


Flatout 300S
http://www.towerhobbies.com/products.../gpma1114.html

E-Flite Sobre
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFL1100

E-Flite Divo
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFL1125

E-Flite Enticement
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFL1175

E-Flite Extra 260
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFL1175


If you have any of these planes comment on:

• Speed
• Ease to Fly
• Ease to assemble
• Total cost (I have four spektrum micro servos, a DX6, but no spare receivers, motors, lipos, etc.)
• Performance in non-perfect conditions
• Anything else you love/hate

Ok, So I have my Slow Stick, now I am looking for a decent place to crash it, I mean, learn to fly it. I'm in SoCal and didn't have much luck searching the board for a related topic. Any help?

I bought a Honeybee King II. I am newbe and need a lot of stick time to learn. Following Radd I am not going very far. The battery only lasts a few minutes and takes 3 hours to charge. So this is going to take for ever. I can't buy more batteries just yet.
Question 1: The directions say to charge for only 2 hours. Do I have to charge for 2 hours, unplug and let it sit, and then charge the last hour?
Question 2: If no, then can I leave it on the charger over night? In other words when the light changes from blinking charge to steady green is it still charging?
Question 3: The Lipo pack is 11.1 volts. Can I run the helicopter off of 12 volt car battery so I can get more stick time?

thanks
Lee

I am new to helis and may not be able to locate an instructor until the fall.
I would like to purchase an entry level micro-heli that I could try teaching myself to fly. I have experience with fixed wing aircraft but have never flown a helicoptor.
Any suggestions about a good starter?
Is it true that a dual rotor (counter-rotating) model might be very easy to fly initially but make to transition to single rotor/tail rotor more difficult?
Thanks in advance.
Any help is appreciated.
Chuck

I have a power supply from an old Dell. The laptop is long gone and I was going to throw away the power supply but it occurred to me it might be useful for charging RC batteries, but I'm not clear on what voltages/amps are needed or harmful. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated :)
Thanks!

Here are my charger and the power supply:

charger:
http://www.tenergybattery.com/index....mart&Itemid=27

power supply:
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/sys/717392811.html