It's Alive!!

Oh Happy Day! I got my new (to me) Power Supply, that I got at the Club Meeting, to fire up. Thanks Matt. Per Matt: "you just hook the green and the purple leads together." The problems is, there are two greens and two purples. To make a long story, short, the magic pins are 4 and 13 on the DB-15 connector. So now you are asking, how do I tell which pin is 4 and which is 13? Well, if you were an electronics expert like me, you would know that the far left pin in the upper row is pin 1, and that the far right pin in the lower row is pin 15. (or you could carefully look at the face of the connector and see the there is a small number next to each pin).

To open the case, remove five phillips head screws from the small cover, remove cover. Remove the front cover assy by removing four torx head screws, you will need a size 15 torx screwdriver. As you remove the front cover, you will need to unplug two connectors to seperate it from the rest of the case. Next, unplug three connectors that run between the case halves, remove four phillip head screws that hold the case halves together. To get to the DB-15 connector and output connector (the one with the red, brown, yellow, and black wires) you will need to remove two "L" brackets from the bottom of the case, and then remove the large circuit board by removing four large phillips head screws, one of the screw is somewhat buried under the mass of red, brown, yellow, and black wires. Now remove the two guide pins the hold the DB-15 connector in place, these just unscrew from the outside. To remove the large connector, you can cut the plastic wing pin off, or carefully wrap the wings back around the center pin until they will go though the hole in the case. Remove the third guide pin.

Things you need to know:
1) The red wires that go to the big connector are 5V, brown are 3.3V, yellow are 12V, and black are GND.
2) Don't touch the small IC's and stuff on the small (daughter) boards as you work on your power supplies, static electricity from your fingers can Zap these. The daughter boards are the smaller boards that stick out of the larger (mother) boards. (Don't ask me who the father was). Handle by way of the case and large heat sinks as you work. Remove all metal chips as you drill holes.
3) Remember how you took it apart so that you can put it back together.

Put a switch between the wires from pin 4 and pin 13 for an on/off power switch.

Good Luck,
Doug

a little PS on the PS

Post Script on the Power Supply.

Some you may need a power cord for your power supply. These are just regular computer power cords and are available at Radio Shack for $9 to $10, or you can get them at EBC Computers for $3. EBC in sandy is located on the N.W. corner of 90th South and State Street in a llittle strip mall that runs on the north and west sides of the Sizzler. They are also located at about 2700 south on Redwood Rd. Check their website for exact locatons.

Doug

AaronGreer's picture

a little PS on the PS

I've also had good luck getting PC power supply cables at D.I. and other
thrift stores. I've paid a buck or so for them at those places.

Aaron

dbdorton@hotmail.com said the following on 11/15/2009 9:13 PM:
> Post Script on the Power Supply. Some you may need a power cord for your
> power supply. These are just regular computer power cords and are
> available
> at Radio Shack for $9 to $10, or you can get them at EBC Computers for
> $3.
> EBC in sandy is located on the N.W. corner of 90th South and State
> Street in
> a llittle strip mall that runs on the north and west sides of the
> Sizzler.
> They are also located at about 2700 south on Redwood Rd. Check their
> website
> for exact locatons.
>
>
> Report as inappropriate:
> http://uterc.org/mollom/contact/0911167fff60842feb
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://lists.uterc.org/listinfo.cgi/uterc-uterc.org
>
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Engineers aren't boring people, we just get excited over boring things.

Got 12 more power supplies

So I managed to pick up 12 more, but that will probably be the end of the fun for this species of power supply. I'll bring them to January's meeting.

If you can't wait that long, give me a call and you can drop by my house in Riverton to pick one up.

--Matt B.

Adding a Switch to the front of the PS

You can put a switch just about any place you want and use just about any switch you want on the power supply. However, I noticed that removing the Latch Assy left a small rectangular hole that would be just perfect for a heavy duty slide switch. Turns out that Radio Shack has one. DPDT Heavy-Duty Slide Switch, P/N 275-403. You get two in a package for $2.99. With a little modification to the front plate, it fits like it was made for it. Before you can mod the front plate you have to get to it.

-------------------

Disassembling the Front Plate Assembly: Remove the handle by removing two large philllips head screws from the back side. Now you can remove the plastic grill. Notice that there are two clear plastic lenses that fit in front of the LED's. Remove these are put them in a safe place. Remove the Latch Assy by removing three Torx head screws. These are also size 15 torx. Next, remove the small flat head phillips screw that holds the LED assy in place, and then remove the four phillips screws that hold the fan unit in place.

-------------------

Now you can work on the front plate. The plate need two mods. 1) The rectangular hole needs to be stretched about 1/16" to the right. So get out your hole stretcher. I used a flat mill flat and worked it with the edge of the file. 2) Cut down the small threaded hub that is near the other end of the rectangle. Cut this off with a Dremel tool with an emery disc and then smooth it down flush. Put the switch in place with one tab under the latch bracket and the other tab over the threaded hole where the hub used to be. The hole is #6-32. I used a cut-down socket head cap screw to hold the switch in place. The screw needs to be cut to about 3/32" to 1/8" long. This screw goes in from the switch side of the plate. The other end of the switch is held in place by one of the handle screws. You will need to file a bit of circular shape in the end of the switch tab to clear the handle screw. After you get the front assy all back together, don't forget the clear plastic lenses, put a drop of thin CA on front side of the cut-down screw to thread lock it in place.

---------------------

I've now finished two power supply conversions. One thing that I've noticed is that there was a lot of carbon dust inside the front assy, and also on the PCB where the main power cable plugs in, and around the fuse. And it was the same on both units. If your's has this problem, I recommend that you take a Q-tip and clean as much of this carbon off as you can. when I took the front assy apart to remove the latch, on the first PS (mine), I found a lot of carbon dust on the front grill and inside the fan unit. The fan unit was so bad that it would make my fingers black from touching the blades. If yours is like this, be sure to clean it up. Good Luck, Doug

Doug

Adding a Switch to the front of the PS

I would like to again thank Mat for the power supply & Wade for the dual
binding post.
A big thanks to Doug for the informative instructions on the conversion of
the power supply!
The conversion is complete, with switch. It works great!

Thanks again
Stan

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